All the cottages in this book include space for bathrooms. Some camps show a shower instead of a tub. The plumbing problems are similar for all the camps.

 

 

 

 

The illustration at the left of the page shows a typical plumbing layout. This system is approved by the FHA, HHFA, and REA, and conforms to the Uniform Plumbing Code. However, the locality in which you build may have some special requirements. Do check with local authorities.

You may decide to have the local plumber install all your piping and fixtures. If so, you probably aren't interested in this section. But if you have decided to turn plumber, the description below should be helpful. All the necessary parts can be bought from your local plumbing dealer, or from the major mail-order houses. It is also possible to rent the necessary tools.

Where do we start? If I were doing the job, I'd start with the fitting that drains the seat and tub. On the floor of the bathroom mark where this fitting (I) is to go. Most seats measure 14 inches or less from the back of the tank to the center of the closet bowl. Cut a hole large enough to take the small end of the closet collar. Install this fitting permanently in position with the closet bend sticking up to within 1/2 to % inches of the floor surface. It will be necessary to support the fitting with wood or metal hangers.

The stack base (part 2) is usually connected to part I. Sometimes it is necessary to add an extension piece if the stack base is to be located in a basement or if your camp is on a steep hillside. The stack base has two tappings: to one you can connect the drain from the shower or tub; to the other you can connect the kitchen sink drain, if necessary. If concrete slab is used, pipes below floor level must be installed before slab is poured.

Calking the joints is done by packing them with strands of oakum. A yarning iron is helpful in getting the oakum well pushed down. When the joint is about two-thirds full, hammer it all down tight. Fill the remainder of the opening with molten lead. When the lead is cooler but not set, tap lightly around the hub. When it is cool, pound with more force. The stack base end should point toward your septic tank or sewer.

I would install the lavatory basin next. Part 3 goes on top of part I. You'll find that this fitting will slip up and down in part I. This allows you to adjust the height of the lavatory basin. This fitting has three tappings. One is for the lavatory basin, the second is for the kitchen sink, and the third for laundry tubs if there are any. Close any unused tappings with cast-iron plugs.

Before calking fitting 3, mark on the wall where the waste pipe from each fixture will enter the wall. Adjust the height of part 3 so that the height of the lower tapping is at the same height as the lowest waste pipe. Then lower part 3 about ¼ inch per foot of horizontal run to allow for drainage.

You are now ready to calk this fitting as you did parts I and 2. The next step is to install the vent pipe. Measure the distance from the top of part 3 to about I foot above the roof. Cut and thread the pipe and screw it into the lavatory fitting 3. Some systems use an increaser at the top of this pipe. If you are going to use the cottage only during the summer, the increaser is an unnecessary part. Use a standard vent-pipe flashing around the top of the pipe.

You're over the worst of it now. The only thing left to do is to run the various pipes from the fixtures to parts I and 3. Drum trap (4) should be installed below the floor, trap cover down, between the tub or shower and the closet-tub fitting (I). Where it is necessary to make turns in the drainage lines, use 90-degree fittings.

To install the seat, place the closet bolts in the closet collar so that the threaded ends extend upward through the flange. Set the collar in the floor over the top of the closet bend and calk in place (5, 6, and 7). The asbestos gasket that comes with the seat should be put over the closet bottom outlet, the seat moved into place, and the nuts tightened.

There is the drainage system of your cottage—except for the disposal unit. If there is a central disposal system or sewer that you can use, it is probable that the connections to it will have to be made by a licensed plumber. On the other hand, if you are going to install a septic tank, you will want to read on into the next section to find out what to do.

Sewage  Disposal

Other than sewers, the only satisfactory method of sewage disposal is by means of a septic tank. A 300-gallon tank can be purchased prefabricated and looks like a large steel drum. The other type of tank is made of reinforced concrete.

Your septic tank should be at least 10 feet from the house and should be located downgrade from any well or drinking-water source. If the grade is too steep, sewage will rush into the tank and disturb its natural bacterial action. A grade of about I foot drop in every 50 feet of horizontal travel is best.

The pit for the septic tank should be dug deep enough so that the top of the tank will be at least a foot below the surface of the earth. Dig a trench from the cottage to the tank for your sewer line. Use either cast-iron or vitrified tile pipe for the sewer. The joints of this line must be absolutely tight.

It is now necessary to dig a drain field for the septic tank. Be sure that this field will be at least 100 feet from any fresh water source. It is good to have the drain field lie crosswise to the general slope of the ground. Again, don't pitch the pipes too much—about I inch in 10 feet is sufficient. The table below tells you how many feet of drain tile you will need. The pipe should be field or drain tile or perforated bituminized fiber drain tile about 4 inches.

in diameter. The trenches should be at least 18 inches below the surface of the earth. It is a good policy to line the trench with at least 6 inches of gravel. The upper section of the drain-tile joints should be covered with strips of tar paper.

Water Distribution

In a previous section of this book I told you how to get water. I left you pumping water into a pressure tank. The next problem is to get this water to the various fixtures. The diagram shows one way to do this.

Before I tried to run any pipe, I'd be sure that the fixtures were in place. This includes the hot-water heater. By the way, there are many ways you can heat the water, including a coal range, oil heater, gas heater, electric heater—and I've even seen a fireplace used to heat water. Because of size and ease of connection, I would suggest a small electric water heater. This is small enough to fit under a sink, in a closet, or even under the cottage. The small units use 120 volts and therefore require no special wiring.

I have mentioned polyethylene pipe for the cold-water lines from your water source to the pump. This type of pipe can also be used for the cold-water supply in your house. It is light and easy to handle and requires a minimum number of fittings, because it is so flexible. Soft copper is another type of pipe that is flexible. It has one drawback, however. It is easy to dent or crimp the tubing.

Let's start with the cold-water piping. From the pump run a %-inch pipe to the hot-water heater. In this line insert a ¾-by-¾-by-½-inch T. To the ½-inch nipple of the T run a pipe to the various fixtures that require a cold-water outlet. Because there are a number of fixtures running off from the main line, it will be necessary to use a number of T's in order to accomplish this. The illustration shows how this is done.

The hot-water system is similar to the cold-water, except that you will want to use copper, brass, or steel piping. The process is the same. One word of caution: Be sure that all the pipes are tilted for drainage and that there is a good way of getting the water out of the system. A couple of drain cocks are usually placed at low points in the piping. The water is usually allowed to run out onto the ground. With no heat in the wintertime, you will want to be sure that no water stands in the pipes.

Tools for Plumbing

The tripod or three-legged stand is used to hold lengths of pipe when it is being driven into the earth.

The drive assembly consists of a number of parts, including a nipple, coupling, and malleable iron drive cap. These parts are screwed to the end of the pointed piece that goes into the earth as you drive a well. When the drive cap is added, you can drive the pointed end of the pipe into the ground with a maul.

A maul is a heavy hammer. Large mauls used to drive pipe usually are made with a hardwood head.

A pipe or Stillson wrench is a large tool with adjustable head that can be used to
hold pipe.

A yarning tool is a rod with a flattened end used to push lead or other soft materials into a joint of pipe.

A threader is used to make ends on pipe so that couplers may be screwed on. These have dies which come in various sizes from ¼ to 2 inches or more in diameter.

Tubing cutters have a small wheel that cuts soft pipe. Each time you revolve the clamplike tool around the pipe, the handle is given another twist downward. This action eventually cuts the pipe.

A plumbers' furnace is a type of gasoline stove with a melting pot for lead at the top.

Ladles are spoonlike dippers used to remove lead from the plumbers' furnace to the joint that is being packed.
Blow torches usually use gasoline for fuel. Be sure to keep the flame of this tool away from any combustible material.

A holder consists of two boards connected together with bolts. It is used to hold lengths of pipe when lowering pipe into a well.

A reamer is used to clean out the inside end of a pipe that has been cut. It is tapered and has a series of flutes.

Flaring tools are used to force the end of copper pipe outward. They consist of a holder with various sizes of holes for pipe. A metal rod is inserted in the end of the tubing that is held by the holder, and hit lightly with a hammer to force the edges outward.

Hack saws are thin-bladed saws used to cut pipe. In using the hack saw, hold it at a 90-degree angle to the pipe. Do not saw too fast. Use the reamer after making the cut.

The earth auger is a shovel-type tool used to make a circular hole in the earth.

Are You Ready To Move Onto The Next Lesson? Click Here