You’ll have to study this plan a bit before you realize how interesting it could be. The central entrance area is like having a porch. In fact, it could be screened on both sides instead of being partially enclosed as shown on the plan. If you prefer this arrangement, enclose the ends toward the bedroom and living room. Even when you aren't able to use the central roofed area, you'll find that there is plenty of room for dining and relaxing in the living area of the cabin.

The patio formed by the bedroom and living-room areas could be paved as described for the tenth cottage of this series of plans. The roof could also be screened. Corrugated Fiberglas in colors could also be used.

The outdoor closet areas near the entrance could be used for storage of an outboard motor, a pump, water heater, and other equipment.

If the fireplace is omitted, be sure to brace this corner, as it carries a considerable roof load.

Construction Outline

Foundation: Piers made of 8-by-8-by-16-inch block. Top block poured solid and bolts put in place to receive sill. Fireplace foundation made of rock and poured concrete.

Flooring: Sills drilled to take bolts and then placed on pier foundation. Spike inner width of header to sill. Lay out floor joists and spike them to inner header. Spike outer header to inner header. Nail down flooring. Install door sills and lay sole around outer edge and under partitions. Build ramp for entrance.

Wall Framing: Lay out long walls on floor. When complete, tip into place and use temporary bracing to hold in vertical position. Frame remaining walls. Build fireplace up to roof level. Install flashing for roof.

Roof: Place roof joists in place and lay roofing boards. Coat roofing boards with asphalt cement. Nail a layer of 15-pound roofing felt over. Build up two more layers of roofing felt over this. Complete roofing and chimney flashing. Build trellis and entrance protection.

Side-wall Finish: Use l-by-6 or l-by-8 tongue-and-groove siding nailed at top, bottom, and at herringbone bracing. Nail striated panels at entrance.

Doors and Window Openings: Follow details on preceding page or in the last section of this book.

Insulation: Medium- or full-thickness Fiberglas or equivalent insulation stapled between roof joists. Use medium thickness in side walls.

Finish interior as desired. Install plumbing and electrical equipment as required.

Materials List

Concrete for footings I cu. yd.
Block for piers depends upon depth
Bricks  about 4,000
3       8 in. x 8 in. flue lining
5     12 in. x 12 in. flue  lining
19 anchor bolts 1/2 in. x 8 in.
60    2x4   16 ft. long framing  partitions, and windows
16    2x4   12 ft. long sole, header, and plates
63    2x6   10 ft.  long floor joists
72    2x6   12 ft. long sills,  header (girder), roof joists
   I    4x4     8  ft. long corner, living room
   I    6x6   18 ft . long beam   (porch-cut length)
140 lineal ft. of  I x 6 fascia and lattice
90 lineal ft. of I in. (or equal) window bead
850 board ft. of flooring
900 board ft. of roofing
1,300   board   ft.  of  tongue-and-groove exterior  siding   (vertical)
2 sheets 3/8 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. waterproof striated plywood (alternate-screening)
1,800 board  ft. of tongue-and-groove interior  finish
600 sq. ft., plus waste, ceiling finish
1,200 sq. ft. of medium-thick insulation
2,000 sq. ft. roofing finish (3-ply) and mastic
1 2 ft. 4 in. x 6 ft. 6 in. bathroom door
2 2 ft. 6 in. x 6 ft. 6 in. exterior doors
3 pairs 3   ft. x 6 ft. 6 in. single-panel  exterior doors
I   2 ft. 8 in. x 6 ft. 6 in. exterior front door
3 pairs 3   ft. x 6 ft. 6 in. screen  doors
I   2 ft. 8 in. x 6 ft. 6 in. screen door
1 sheets 4 ft. x 8 ft. x 3 in. waterproof plywood
2 cellar sash (about 28 in. x 33 in.)
I   casement window 37 in. x 38 in.
Electric wiring: I 10-220 volt, 3-wire system
Plumbing: piping, pump, tank, water heater, seat,  basin, tub, sink
Septic tank
Range
Refrigerator

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