Preface - Why are you interested in building a camp, cottage, or cabin? Probably it started with some memorable summers in your own childhood. I can remember a summer at Ontario Bay—or was it that vacation on Tallon Lake in Canada that made such a big impression? Perhaps my own interest was heightened when our children experienced pleasant summers at Lake George and on the St. Lawrence River. It isn't important how it started.

1. Why Build - There may be many reasons for wanting to build your own cabin. I'll give you two that I think are fairly universal: You probably feel sure that you can save money by doing the work yourself. And there is a great deal of satisfaction in doing the work.

Saving money is important to all of us. If you plan your work carefully, have a clear conception of what you are doing, and aren't going to give up halfway through, I'm sure that you can save at least a third of the contractor price for any of the cottages shown in this book.

2. Cottage Selecting - I wish I could tell you which cottage you should build, but you're going to have to decide that for yourself. You'll have to select a cottage to fit the piece of property you own or intend to buy. You'll also have to decide how you want to live when you're using the camp.

Several of the camps shown in this book have core or starter units. Perhaps this is what you want—a one-room job that you can add to in other years. It's a good idea. It won't drain your pocketbook completely.

Cabin Plan 1 - Here's a core type of cottage that is simple to build. Why not build the basic section of this cottage now? You can add to it later. With studio couches it will sleep four comfortably. Later you can add the bunk rooms—as many as you need. The last bunk room beyond the car port is a luxury, but if you have someone in the family who snores, it's worth having. You can also use that annex for your more formal guests. The porch off the kitchen area is a desirable addition that you can make at any time.

Cabin Plan 2 - Cantilevering the porch of this cottage out over the water would give a dramatic effect. The shell of this cottage should be built all at one time. You'll note that I have shown an alternate living-room arrangement in the sketches. The fireplace arrangement using masonry would be very good-looking, but it's hard work. The more simple Franklin stove would give almost as much heat. By using a studio couch in the dining area, you would almost have an extra bedroom.

Cabin Plan 3 - Here’s the smallest cottage in the book. It is really minimal, but it can sleep four if a daybed is used in the dining corner. The details show how a folding table could be made to fit into the wall at this point. By using this arrangement, you will be able to pull the daybed out without trouble.

Cabin Plan 4 - This simple box could be built on a very level piece of property or could be made to span two islands. The porch that separates the living area from the sleeping area could   be very comfortable. Breezes could blow through unhindered. It would be a good place to eat and relax in. If sunlight is a problem, a heavier overhang on the glass side might be desirable. If the weather permits using the porch, this cottage can sleep six or eight people.

Cabin Plan 5 - You’ll have to study this plan a bit before you realize how interesting it could be. The central entrance area is like having a porch. In fact, it could be screened on both sides instead of being partially enclosed as shown on the plan. If you prefer this arrangement, enclose the ends toward the bedroom and living room. Even when you aren't able to use the central roofed area, you'll find that there is plenty of room for dining and relaxing in the living area of the cabin.

Cabin Plan 6 - This is another core-type cottage. The dining-kitchen area of this cabin is of particular interest. It is about as simple as you could make it, but you'll find the areas very adequate. The roof overhang, with the underside brought into the living area, is particularly interesting. Recessed lighting hidden above would give a warm feeling to this cottage at night. You can substitute a Franklin or Acorn fireplace for the one shown in the drawings.

Cabin Plan 7 - A hillside would be a good place to put this cottage. Imagine an outdoor wiener roast on the open porch. Later, when the mosquitoes start biting and there is a chill in the air, you could gather around the inside fireplace for a song fest. And if the evening were warm, you could sit on your private screened porch off the bedroom. Indoor eating would be done along the glass wall opposite the kitchen area.

Cabin Plan 8 - Here’s more elaborate cottage. Besides having three bedrooms, it has the largest kitchen area of any of the cabins in this section. The car port could serve a number of purposes. It could be used as a porch or, by enclosing it, a year-round playroom could be had. The living-dining area is reasonably large.

Cabin Plan 9 - This cottage would make a good year-round home if it were properly heated and insulated. It has a good kitchen with enough space for a washer and drier. While the living and dining areas are a bit small, the built-in units would make the house seem larger. This plan also allows you to add on more bedrooms at a future date.

Cabin Plan 10 - For those who like a little more formal cottage, this unit would be ideal. All the areas are well separated. Some of you might like to build this as a permanent home. It could be done by adding a full foundation and installing proper heating. There is no fireplace in this cottage, but I have indicated where you might put a Franklin stove.

3. Portfolio - The cottages in this section have been designed by architects for specific clients. While they are more elaborate than the plans in the preceding pages, they do suggest ideas that you may want to include in your own unit.

Notice particularly how windows, terraces, and porches have been related to the plan. Outdoor living and the relationship of indoor-outdoor areas is particularly important in cottages.

4. Site Selection - Some of you will find it difficult to locate a good spot for your camp or cabin. A possible solution may be found in our national forests. If you write to the officer in charge of a particular forest, he will give you information regarding available sites. If you don't know who your nearest forest officer is, write to the National Park Service, Department of the Interior, Washington 25, D.C.

5. Construction - As you have been going through this book, you have probably found one or more cottages that appeal to you. Perhaps you have already made up your mind. The balance of this book is designed to help you actually construct that cabin.

You'll note that after some of the following sections I have included a description of the various tools you will need. You are familiar with and own most of these, I'm sure. Those tools you don't have can usually be borrowed or rented.

6. Foundations - There are at least three types of foundation that may be used with any of the cottages shown in this book. These are: a concrete slab on grade; a full foundation wall (or basement) around the outside perimeter of the building; and a pier type of foundation. All the drawings in the book show pier foundations, because they are usually the cheapest to build and the easiest for the amateur craftsman to construct.

7. Framing - Framing is the structural skeleton of your house. The drawing at the top indicates the important framing members of any of the cottages. The most important elements are the sill, header, joists, girders, sole, flooring, studs, plate, and rafters. Let's take a look at these parts.

8. Finishing - Probably the most practical and easiest material to use as the exterior finish is wood. It has the advantage of coming in many different shapes, colors, and textures. It can be stained, painted, or left natural.

As noted in the framing section of this book, I have not specified that sheathing must be used.

9. Tools - If building a cottage is the first large project you have attempted, you've probably been wondering what tools you should have. In the following paragraphs I am going to describe most of those that will be useful. Not all are essential.

You probably already own the essential ones. These are: hammer, screw driver, saw (crosscut, also ripsaw if possible), plane, bit and brace, chisel, pliers, file, try square, 6-foot rule, level, spatula. If you don't have all of these tools, I'd suggest that you get them.

10. Water Supply -Water is one of the most important things that you will need for your camp. It can be the hardest or the easiest thing to find. A clear lake and a bucket is the cheapest way you'll be able to get a good supply.

It is important that the water you use be free from harmful bacteria.

11. Plumbing - All the cottages in this book include space for bathrooms. Some camps show a shower instead of a tub. The plumbing problems are similar for all the camps.

The illustration at the left of the page shows a typical plumbing layout. This system is approved by the FHA, HHFA, and REA, and conforms to the Uniform Plumbing Code. However, the locality in which you build may have some special requirements. Do check with local authorities.

12. Electrical Work - Some people think that they can get along very well without electricity in a summer place. But life will be a lot easier if you have electricity. The job of installing your own electrical system isn't a difficult one. As in the case of plumbing, you will want to be sure that there isn't some local ordinance or utility regulation that limits what you can do yourself. Assuming that there is no reason that you can't do the work, let's get started.

13. Special Details -Here are some special details and information which will be helpful to you.

The first page illustrates the difference between the nominal and the actual lumber size you'll receive from your dealer. In all of the enlarged and sectional drawings in this book I have used the actual lumber size rather than the nominal.

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